ODOP(Basohli Paintings& Pashmina)
One District One Product (ODOP) is an initiative to boost economic growth at the District Level by promoting and Branding one product from each District of the Country. It was launched in January 2018, by the Uttar Pradesh Government, and due to its success, was later adopted by the Central Government. The ‘One District, One Product (ODOP) was later launched by the Ministry of Food Processing Industries in 2018, to help districts reach their full potential, foster economic and socio-cultural growth, and create employment opportunities, especially in rural areas.
To increase exports and take export promotion to the District level, Department of Commerce through the Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) is engaging with State / UT Governments to implement the said initiative in all districts of the country in a phased manner, with the objective of mobilizing the potential of each district of the country to achieve its potential as an export hub.
Keeping in view the Popularity and Export Potential of Local Product in District Kathua the world famous Basohli Paintings and Basohli Pashmina are nominated as ODOP of District Kathua.
Basohli Painting Basohli Pashmina products
AN OVERVIEW OF BASOHLI PAINTINGS
The Western Himalayan Hill State of Basohli, formerly known as Vishwasthali, is now as a Tehsil in District Kathua in the U.T of J&K. It is situated on the Right Bank of River Ravi at an Altitude of about 1876 ft. As per local tradition, Basohli State is said to have been founded by ‘Basu/Vasu’, a local Rana on the right bank of river Ravi. This was mentioned by Shiv Dobliya in his book titled as “Basohli Darshan”.The Padma Shri Prof Shiv Nirmohi’s mentioned the same in his book titled as “Duggar ka Itihaas”. In the 10th Century (910-940 AD) the Raja Man Shakiya of Vallapur (Balaur)- defeated Basu Rana of Basohli in a single battle and subsequently absorbed Basohli with Vallapur.
Raja Bhupat Pal rebuilt the ancient settlement of Basohli a short distance away on a slope of mountain. The transfer of capital from Balaur to Basohli due to security reasons probably happened in 1630.The signs of ancient Basohli can still be seen on the banks of River Ravi. People of different castes and art were settled in Basohli by giving different lands, that is why Basohli was named as Vishwashthali.But the Vishwasthali name could not last longer, the state become famous by its ancient name i.e., Basohli. Raja Bhupat Pal was later killed in 1635 by Raja Jagat Singh of Nurpur in connivance with Mughal, when he had gone to Delhi to visit Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.
The historic state of Basohli has been renowned for its unique Arts and Culture, such as the world famous Basohli Pashmina Shawls and Basohli School of Miniature Paintings, amongst others. Basohli School of Painting is the first School of Pahari Painting, and a significantly important School in Indian Paintings.
“Basohli is a distinctive school, a great virile exponent of traditional art. Indian painting would have been poorer if the art of Basohli had not existed”, says Ajit Ghose.
The report prepared by Archaeological survey of India way back in 1918-19 and published in 1921 mentioned the Basohli Paintings for the first time. The report stated that some BasohliPaintings have been acquired by the Curator of Central Museum, Lahore fromdealers around Punjab who called them Tibeti paintings. The Curator has concluded from his study that the Basohli School is possibly of pre-Mughal origin and the so-called Tibeti paintings are nothing but the late production of this School.
In‘The Basohli School of Rajputs Painting’ by Ajit Ghose, that these paintings in Mesuem represents different tantric manifestations of the Goddess Durga and do not show any traces of Mughal influence either in drawing or in colouring. The use of well cut pieces of beetle’s wings jewels in ornaments is a peculiar feature of these paintings.
In ‘Indian Court Paintings, 16th-19th Century’ Steven Kossak writes that in contrast to the assimilationist tendency of the Rajasthani ateliers, the Punjab Hills workshops (Western Himalayas, of which Basohli is a part) turned their backs on Mughal influence. The Basohli idiom seems quite clearly to reject Mughal conventions in favor of a style solidly within the mainstream of indigenous Rajputs tradition, one that appeals directly to the senses by means of color and pattern. The same holds true for subject matter. Pahari (that is, Punjab Hills) paintings mostly illustrate religious texts rather than embracing Mughal subject matter as most of the Rajasthani ateliers had.
It can be thus concluded that Basohli Paintings represent a much older art tradition in Basohli. Basohli Paintings illustrations are mostly based on Hindu pantheon, mythology and religious text. From Basohli, the style spread to the hill states of Mankot, Jasrota, Nurpur, Bilaspur, Kulu, Kangra, Chamba, Guler and others. As the style spread, variations due to local conditions developed resulting in the growth of several new schools of Pahari Paintings. Some masterpieces of Basohli School are in the prestigious museums, art galleries, palaces and a number of other prominent places across the hill states, India and the world.
Pal Dynasty of Basohli leads to the Revival and development of traditional Basohli Painting Craft. All the Pal rulers play a catalytic role in the promotion of Basohli Painting Craft. But the time period of Raja Kripal Pal (1678-16930) was considered as the vibrant period for the revival, development and promotion of Basohli Painting Craft. It was durning his time period that a more mature instyle and expression type of artwork emerged in Basohli Paintings Craft. He encouraged local Artisans toward the fine Art of already existing Basohli Paintings Craft with theme based on Hindu Mythology and Religious Text like Ramayana. He formed Atelier for the promotion of Art.
THEME OF BASOHLI PAINTINGS
Basohli Paintings is fusion of Hindu mythology and folk art of the Local Hills. The themes includes:-Portraits of Local Rulers, Local Traditions and environment, Devi Series (it deals with the Bhadrakali a supreme deity),Hindu Religious Texts like the Ramayana, Bhagvata Purana (it deals with the life of Lord Krishna).Ragamala Series (Paintings depicting a range of musical melodies known as Ragas),Rasmangri Series (It concentrates the love theme of Nayaka and Nayak, Shiv & Parvati, Ram & Sita, Radha & Krishna).Gita Govinda Series (it deals with the songs of Lord Krishna).
CHARACTERISTICS/ QUALITIES OF BASOHLI PAINTINGS.
- Basohli Paintings are handmade miniature paintings to be held in hand and read closely, characterized by 8’’x12’’, 9’’x13”, 8”x7”, 9”x7” predominating sizes. Now a day these Paintings are mostly available in 8”x12”, 9”x13” and 9.5”x13.7” sizes. And followed by mounting and framing width and length increases by 4”(depends upon Artisan and customer). Besides this as per demand Artisans also go for bigger sizes and even smaller too.
- Basohli Paintings are known for its exquisite beauty characterized by the use of stone colours and the colours extracted from the leaves of the plants. The colours are evocative with ochre yellow, brown & Green background predominating and Red, Yellow and Blue in the Borders.
- Basohli Paintings are characterized by the use of original Gold and silver for Golden and silver colour. Gold is used for embroidery in ornaments and silver for embroidery as well as for painting of dresses, windows and pillars of pavilions.
- The figures in the paintings represent the perfect geometrical pattern characterized by bold lines, vibrant colours, receding forehead, high nose pointed in unbroken continuation, receding chin, full cheeks, the large bulging lotus petal shaped eyes, short choli, skirts, scarves, diaphanous draperies.
- A distinctive technique is the depiction of jewellery by thick, raised drop of white colour with particles of green beetle wings used to represents emeralds.
- Decorative treatment of the landscape and high horizon are among the prominent characteristics of the Basohli Paintings. The bright sunlight is shown as a thin wisps and curls on the horizon, light rain is depicted by pearl like strands and heavy rain by straight white lines linked with clouds. Edges of lakes and river are also beautified by a decorative treatment of circular lotus leaves interspersed with the pink buds and flowers.
- Basohli Paintings are characterized by the highly conventionalized representation of trees. Forests are shown as circle of trees. The trees depicted in Basohli Paintings are also symbolical. For instance Love-sick Nayaka is shown under the drooping branches of willows; ripe mangoes are a symbol of the physical charm of women.
COLOURS USED IN BASOHLI PAINTINGS
Basohli Paintings are characterized by the use of evocative stone colours, colours extracted from the leaves of the plants and combination of colours. Basohli Paintings are also characterized by the use of original Gold and Silver for Golden and Silver Colour, some stone colours and colours from plants are available in District Kathua, Samba, Udhampur, Jammu and some stone colours are brought from the Rajasthan. Artisans keep discovering plant and stone colours. The processing of colours is done by the Basohli Paintings Artisans themselves.
| S.No | Colours | Material |
| 1. | White | Khadiya Clay, Sea-Shells, Zinc oxide |
| 2. | Red | Sangaraf stone, Indian Red Stone, Resin from lac insect, Red Sindoor, Berries of Rhododendron sps. |
| 3. | Orange | Tesu flower (Butea monosperma) orange sindoor, combination of Red & Yellow Colour, Red Lead. |
| 4. | Yellow | Barkihartaal Stone, Mango Leaves, Simbal Tree Leaves (Bombax ceiba) Turmeric Powder, Roots of Berberis, Saffron |
| 5. | Blue | Lapis Lazuli stone, Indigo (Neel) |
| 6. | Green | Green Algae, Malachite Stone |
| 7. | Yellow-Green | Yellow Green Algae |
| 8. | Parrot-Green | Combination of blue & Yellow Colour |
| 9. | Black | Kajol, Lamp Black from earthem Lamps & Kapur Balls. |
| 10. | Brown | Combination of primary colour (Red, Blue & Yellow) |
| 11. | Golden | Original pure Gold Leaf Paper & Combination of brown & Yellow colour |
| 12. | Silver | Pure silver leaf paper, sea-shells & Combination of white, Black & Blue Colour |
| 13. | Bluish-Green | Combination of Green and Yellow colour |
PROCESS OF MAKING BASOHLI PAINTINGS
(1)Paper sheet:-Basohli Paintings are made on handmade sheets prepared by the Artisans themselves or on Sialkoti Paper / wasli Paper. Earlier Basohli Paintings are made on handmade sheets and on Sialkoti paper. Sialkoti paper is handmade thick paper having good power of absorption of colors and is known for durability also. Due to the non-availability of Sialkoti paper the Artisans now made paintings on wasli paper. Artisans either bring wasli paper from Jaipur (Rajasthan) or they bring handmade sheets from Rajasthan & prepare wasli paper themselves. Wasli paper is prepared by pasting layers of 4-8 thin sheets of handmade water absorbent paper that are bound together with the flour (Maida). Blue vitriol/copper sulphate (Neelathotha) is also added to the flour, as it prevents paper from being destroyed by many insects. After drawing of these layers wasli paper was burnished either with a smooth stone preferably cornelian (Aqeeq) or with a large sea-shells to make the wasli paper glossy in appearance.
(2)Color: – The color of the Basohli Paintings is processed on sea-shells. It gives natural and traditional feel of processing color and also colors are processed smoothly and finely. The colors are mixed with kikar Gum/Badam Gum to increase its fixation properties. The color are also stored and used from sea shells. This is because the shells prevent mixing of colors and even if the color dries on the shells it can be reused by easily adding water.
(3)Brushes: – The Brushes for Basohli Paintings are made up of squirrel hairs and the feather of kalmoha (Dove) Feather having Bamboo Strand.
(4)Whitening of Wasli-paper: – Wasli-paper is Cremish in color, so before drawing of sketch/ illustrations it is painted with white color in order to achieve clear white look followed by drying and burnishing with either smooth stone preferable cornelian stone (Aqeeq) or with white large sea shell in order to achieve the smooth and glossy look of the paper.
(5)Drawing of sketch/ illustrations: -Firstly sketch of idioms including decorative items and landscapes as per requirement of painting are drawn on the wasli paper with the help of brushes/ pencil. If pencil is used than the sketch is further outlined with the help fine brushes.
(6)Coloring of Elements of Painting: – The sketch/ illustrations are colored as per requirement of the painting with the help of fine brushes. If gold and silver are to be used in painting, then at required places Artisan apply yellow and light white as a base color for Gold and Silver respectively. Although there is no requirement of adding layers of colors in the paintings as the natural colors shows vibrancy in single coating but if required all the elements of Basohli Paintings are colored again and again followed by drawing and burnishing.
(7)Detailing of Painting: – After burnishing there is possibility of spreading of colors that affect the outline of the distinctive elements of Basohli Paintings. If so, the elements of paintings are again outlined with the help of fine brushes. After this small decorative features are done in paintings like depiction of Jewellery by thick, raised drop of white color, use of Gold and Silver on the base colors, Exposing bold eyes on the face of the idioms, use of Green beetle wings in the jewellery of paintings to represents emeralds, and extra colors are also removed with help of hard brushes. The painting is further subjected for burnishing. This time burnishing is done only where gold and silver have been used and that too with the small Aqeeq.
(8)Bordering of Painting: – The painting is bordered by mainly using primary colors (Red, Blue, Yellow) and if required followed by adding layers also.
(9)Finishing: – All the elements of the paintings are re-outlined and any deficiency in the painting if noticed that too is fulfilled.
(10)Mounting & Framing: – Painting is finally mounted on mount sheet followed by framing.
CURRENT POSITION OF BASOHLI-PAINTING IN DISTRICT KATHUA.
The Department of Handicrafts Kathua hasa SingleAdvanced Basohli Painting Training Center in Basohli. This Center is of Elementary type providing free of cost training to 20 numbers of Trainees in Basohli Pashmina Craft. Besides this The Department of Handicrafts Kathua provides Rs.1000-/-stipend to the trainees per month for the period of two year followed by Advanced Course Stipend of Rs.1500 per trainee/month for the period of two year again.
STATUS OF BASOHLI PASHMINA TRAINING CENTERS.
| S.NO. | TRAINING CENTERS | LOCATION | TRAINEES | STATUS |
| 01 | Basohli Painting Training Center | Nagrota Preta
Basohli |
20 | Active |
After completion of training course all the trainees are registered with the Department as a Basohli Painting Artisans. The registration is online via single window system, so that they can avail the Schemes of the Department, establishes their units and earn their livelihood by the production and sale of Basohli Paintings. In this connection marketing support is also provided by the Department.
| S.NO | REGISTRATION | UP TO (20-21) | FY-(2021-22) | FY-(2022-23) | FY-(2023-24) | Total |
| 01 | Basohli Painting Artisans | 49 | 54 | 23 | 38 | 164 |
In connection to skill-up gradation in Basohli Painting Craft including its revival, so far the Department of Handicrafts Kathua has established 04 -number of Basohli Painting Karkhandar Units in Kathua. The master trainer of these units upgraded the skill of 30 numbers of ex-trainees in Basohli Painting Craft. Now all these units have formulated Industrial Cooperative Societies registered by The Director Handloom & Handicrafts, Jammu under J&K Self-Reliant Act, 1999.
| S.NO. | KARKHANDAR UNIT | LOCATION | EX-TRAINEES |
| 01 | Basohli Painting Karkhandar Unit | Ward no.12 MC Basohli | 05 |
| 02 | Basohli Painting Karkhandar Unit | Ward no.8 MC Kathua | 05 |
| 03 | Basohli Painting Karkhandar Unit | Krishna colony Kathua | 10 |
| 04 | Basohli Painting Karkhandar Unit | Dadoli,Nagri | 10 |
| 05 | Basohli Painting Karkhandar Unit | Saman ,Basohli | 10 |
STATUS OF BASOHLI PAINTING COOPERATIVE SOCIETIES.
The Department of Handicrafts Kathua has formulated 05 number of Industrial Cooperative Societies of Basohli Paintings under J&K Self-Reliant Act, 1999.All these societies have availed the benefit ofFinancial Support Scheme. Under this Scheme Financial Support of Rs.1-lac in two equal instalments for the period of 2-years is provided by the Department to the Societies and the amount is non-refundable.
| S.NO. | SOCIETIES UP TO MAY
2024-25 |
| 1 | 05 |
| S.NO. | COOPERATIVE-SOCIETIES | LOCATION | ARTISANS | STATUS |
| 01 | THE BASOHLI ART & PAINTING H/C ICS LTD. | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 02 | BASOHLI VISHWASTHALI ART & PAINTING H/C ICS LTD | BASOHLI | 14 | ACTIVE |
| 03 | JAI DURGS BASOHLI ART & PAINTING H/C ICS LTD. | KATHUA | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 04 | KANCHAN BASOHLI ART & PAINTING GALLERY H/C ICS LTD | BARNOTI,KATHUA | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 05 | SHRI KRISHNA BASOHLI ART & PAINTING H/C ICS LTD | DADOLI,NAGRI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| TOTAL | 58 | ACTIVE |
GI-TAGGING OF BASOHLI PAINTINGS.
Theworld famous Basohli Paintings from Kathua District has obtained the GI Tag- on 31st March2023. The Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom, Jammu achieved this remarkable milestone with the support of District Administration and NABARD. The GI Tagging of Basohli Painting is a proud moment for the cultural and artistic heritage of Jammu & Kashmir and a step forward in promoting this traditional Art & Craft.
It will preserve the heritage of the Craft as the products is specific to the region & has a long past history. GI-Tag highlights authenticity of Basohli Paintings in terms of origin, uniqueness, quality, branding, price& Marketing of Basohli Paintings at National and International Level & hence preserves the traditional Craft of Basohli & Boosts the regional economic Development.GI-Tag affords better legal protection to facilitate an action for infringement. The registered proprietor and authorized users can initiate infringement actions. Only authorized users can use the Geographical indication tag after inspection by inspection Committee.List of 120 number of AU of Basohli Paintings stands submitted to GI registery Office Chennai.
DEPARTMENTAL -SCHEMES.
Departmental Schemes for promotion & Sale of Basohli Paintings.
| S.NO. | DEPARTMENTAL -SCHEMES |
| 02 | CREDIT CARD SCHEME FOR ARTISANS & WEAVERS |
| 03 | FINANCIAL SUPPORT SCHEME |
| 04 | KARKHANDER SCHEME |
| 06 | PROMOTION & MARKETING INTERVENTION (RENTAL-CHARGES) |
| 08 | EDUCATION SCHOLARSHIP SCHEME FOR CHILDREN OF ARTISANS |
EXPORT POTENTIAL OF BASOHLI PAINTINGS
(ONE DISTRICT ONE PRODUCT (Basohli painting )
ODOP TEAM(Committee)
| 1 | District Development Commissioner | Chairman |
| 2 | General Manager, DIC | Member Secretary |
| 3 | Chief Agriculture Officer | Member |
| 4 | Chief Horticulture Officer | Member |
| 5 | District Lead Bank Manager | Member |
| 6 | Assistant Director, Handicrafts | Member |
| 7 | Assistant Director, Handloom | Member |
| 8 | District Officer, J&K KVIB | Member |
Dr.Rakesh Minhas (IAS) Sh.Prem Singh Chib (JKAS) Pardeep Shan (JKAS)
District Development Commissioner GM DIC Kathua Astt.Director Handloom & Handicrafts
Kathua Kathua
Basohli Painting Craft of District Kathua has a great potential of employment generation & boosting the economic growth of the region.The Annual production of Basohli Paintings 2022-23 in District Kathua is approximately 1290 in number via Training Centers, Karkhandar Units ,Cooperative Societies, & Individual level Artisans of worth Rs. 49.50 -/- lacks. The Department of Handicrafts Kathua play a catalytic role in skill-upgradation, access to new diversification in the product by conducting various training programmes, workshops, providing financial support to the Artisans & facilitating marketing of Paintings by recommending participation of Basohli Painting Artisans in various National, State & District level Fairs & Exhibitions through marketing incentives. Thus Distt Kathua has a great potential of production & sale of Basohli Paintings.
| OFFICE OF THE ASSISTANT DIRECTOR HANDICRAFTS KATHUA W.no.2 , Near Ramleela Ground Kathua Email: adhkathua@gamil.com | ||||
| List of Supplier of BASHOLI PAINTING (One District One Product) | ||||
| S no. | Name of Artisan | Society/ Karkhandar Unit/Individual | Address | Contact no. |
| 1 | Sohan Singh | Karkhandar Unit | W No. 12 ,Basholi, Kathua | 9419111349 |
| 2 | Rajesh Kapoor | Vishwasthali Society | W No. 03 Basholi, Kathua | 7889915637 |
| 3 | Kanchan Billowaria | kanchan Basholi painting art gallery | Jandrota ,Basholi,Kathua | 9419154278 |
| 4 | Shashi Paul | Karkhandar Unit | W No. 12 ,Kathua | 9149811243 |
| 5 | Sunita Devi | Karkhandar Unit | W No. 04 ,Jandrota,Basholi,Kathua | 9541881421 |
| 6 | Rajni Bala | Karkhandar Unit | W No. 10.parliwand, ,Kathua | 9596959768 |
| 7 | Dheraj Kapoor | Basholi Art and Painting Society | W No. 05 ,Basholi,Kathua | 9906277754 |
| 8 | Sona Rupi | Basholi Art and Painting Society | W No. 12 ,Basholi,Kathua | 9796826269 |
| 9 | Aastha Billowaria | Basholi Vishwasthali Art and Painting Society | W No. 05 ,Basholi,Kathua | 9149692212 |
| 10 | Sonam Jamwal | Basholi Vishwasthali Art and Painting Society | W No. 06 ,Basholi,Kathua | 9622395609 |
| 11 | Nitika Mehra | Basholi Vishwasthali Art and Painting Society | W No. 02 ,Basholi,Kathua | 8492959955 |
| 12 | Jai Paul | Jai Durga Basholi Painting Society | W No. 22,Kathua | 8899157329 |
| 13 | Raman Sharma | Jai Durga Basholi Painting Society | W No. 10 ,Kathua | 7006119833 |
PRODUCTION & SALE OF BASOHLI PAINTINGS(2023-24)
| S.NO. | PRODUCTION SOURSE | ANNUAL APPROX.PRODUCTION
IN NO.(Basohli Paintings) |
ANNUAL APPROX. VALUE IN LACS |
| 01 | BASOHLI PAINTING TRAINING CENTER | 70 | 0.70 |
| 02 | (KARKHANDER UNITS) | 450 | 18.00 |
| 03 | COOPERATIVE SOCIETIES | 620 | 24.80 |
| 06 | INDIVIDUAL LEVEL ARTISANS | 150 | 6.00 |
| TOTAL | 1290 | 49.50 | |
The production & sale of Basohli Paintings products can be enhanced by increasing the number of training centers, recruitment of manpower in the Department setting up Raw material units, innovations, product diversification, GeM registration and other e-platform registration of societies, Awareness and development of strong market linkages. All these bottlenecks if cleared willfacilitate demand, production & sale of Basohli Paintings. It may increases the future production 3-4 times than the current production & accordingly the sale amount may also increases of worth Rs.200.0 lacs. /annum approximately. It will leads to overall economic prosperity of the artisans, act as a source of employment generation in the District & hence boost regional economic development.
An Overview of (BASOHLI PASHMINA)
Basohli formely known as Vishwasthali is a town in District Kathua in the U.T of J&K. It is situated on the right Bank of River Ravi at an Altitude of about 1876 ft. Basohli is very famous since time immemorial in terms of Art, Craft and Culture. It is known for world famous miniature Paintings known as Basohli Paintings and an article of pure warmth and eleganceknown as Basohli Pashmina Shawls & Mufflers.
Handloom weaving was prevalent in the place as an indigenous Traditional Craft. Earlier weavers of this region including other regions now named as Billawar and Bani used to weaved woollen products only. The peoples of this region in District Kathua reared sheep’s for meat and wool purpose. The wool so obtained was finally processed traditionally into fabrics with the help of Charkhas and handlooms. With time local level development starts happening in handloom weaving in Basohli and Pashmina fibres were introduced.
Pashmina Fibres are obtained from Pashmina Goat. In India there are mainly two types of Pashmina Goats. One is Chegu and other is Changthangi (Caprahircus).Chigu is found in the areas of Kinnaur, Lahul spiti, Kulu and Kalang in Himachal Pradesh. The Changthangi Goat is reared in Changthang, Ladakh which is located over 3500 meters above sea level.The average range of temperature of this area is +40 to -40 degree Celsius which is considered as one of the harshest temperatures in the world.
Pashmina fibres are the undercoat fibres of Pashmina Goat that grows mostly on their underbelly, neck and behind the ears. During winter season, these Goat produces undercoat Pashmina fibres as an adaptation for protection against harsh cold. These fibres insulated the body of Pashmina Goat and hence play a very important role for their survival. And during spring/summer season these goats shed this itself. The herders of Ladakh comb their goat to get Pashmina fibres mixed with outer coat fibres which is termed as Mixed Pashmina. This is most prominent method of achieving Pashmina fibres and even some time they trim the goat also. The Ladakhi peoples are not expertise in the processing of Pashmina fibres so they mostly used to sell the Raw Pashmina to the weavers of Kashmir.
Some Pashmina traders from Leh-Ladakh came to know that there is a place called Basohli where there are many peoples who are engaged in handloom work. Some Pashmina Traders went to Basohli for sale of Raw Pashmina and this leads to the introduction of Raw Pashmina in Basohli. It was also reported that Kahan Singh Billowaria who was the resident of Basohli induced Pashmina weaving in Basohli in the 18th Century by some historian. In the beginning the weavers of the Basohli faces many difficulties in Pashmina weaving but finally because of their innate ability of weaving, curiosity and hard work they processed Pashmina fibres into fabrics. More over the environmental factors of Basohli like moisture, temperature etc.) Also suits Pashmina weaving in Basohli. After that Pashmina fibres kept coming from Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh as well. But mostly Basohli weavers preferred Pashmina fibres from Ladakh because the Pashmina fibres from Ladakh are comparatively finest and luxuries in quality. It is also said that during 17th& 18th century 700 families of Kashmiri Pashmina Weavers used to settle in Basohli and built up a prosperous trade because the quality of Pashmina fabrics weaved by Basohli Pashmina weavers are handmade and pure in quality and even today there is no mechanized unit of Pashmina weaving in District Kathua. This revealed that Basohli Pashmina weavers are still following the traditional way of weaving and hence play a very important role in the preservance of Traditional Craft of Basohli Pashmina weaving.
Pashmina fibers (13-16micron) passes through many skilled hands before processed into fabrics.
- Harvesting of Pashmina fibres/De-hiring: – During spring/summer season Pashmina goat shed Pashmina fibres itself. The herders of Ladakh comb their goat to get Pashmina fibres mixed with outer coat fibres; the mixture is termed as Mixed Pashmina. This is most prominent method of achieving Pashmina fibres and even some time they trim the goat also.
- Procurements of Pashmina fibres: – The Ladakhi peoples are not so expertise in the processing of Pashmina fibres so they mostly used to sell the Pashmina fibres to the weavers of Basohli and Kashmir. Basohli Pashmina weavers procure Mixed Pashmina from Changthang Pashmina Grower Marketing Cooperative Society. Besides this many weavers also procure it directly from herders as well.
- Cleaning & Sorting of Mixed Pashmina:-The mixed Pashmina is manually dusted to remove impurities like sand, dust etc that may be stuck to it followed by separation of outer coat fibres from the Pashmina fibres by hands and the process is known as The result of sorting is Raw Pashmina, the pure Pashmina fibres.
(4)Combing of Pashmina:-The raw Pashmina is combed and converted into soft plugs with the help of wooden Combs. The Pashmina plugs so obtained are known as Comb Pashmina which is further treated with rice/Maida water locally known as mand to increase the tensile strength and softness of Pashmina fibres followed by drying and cleaning.
(5)Carding of Comb Pashmina Plugs:-Comb Pashmina are generally worsted /entangled Pashmina fibres, if used for spinning the spinner would not get long yarn.So, the comb Pashmina is subjected for Carding. Carding is a process of separating individual fibres, using a series of dividing and re-dividing steps that causes the entangled fibres to lie parallel to one another and also removes most of the impurities. Carding in Basohli is mostly done by hands using hand carders while few went to Himachal Paradesh for drum carding as this State is nearer to the Basohli. Comb Pashmina after Carding is known as Sliver Pashmina.
(6)Spinning:-Sliver Pashmina plugs are than subjected for spinning by spinning wheel/Charkha. It is process of conversion of Pashmina fibres into yarn for weaving. As Pashmina is very delicate the spun yarn is doubled and twisted on the Charkha to increase its strength.
(7)Dying of yarn:-The Pashmina fabrics are Cream/grey/camel or mixture of these colors, depending upon the color of yarn used.Mostly Basohli Pashmina weavers weaved fabrics in natural colours but many are known trained in dying via Samarth Scheme under NHDP (National Handloom Development Programme) and are weaving colored fabrics also by using natural fibre dyes for dying Pashmina yarn.
(8)Weaving: – Weaving is the Art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads called warp and wept are interlaced with each other at right angle to form a fabric and the art of weaving is known to the weavers of Basohli, since time immemorial. Basohli Pashmina fabrics are weaved by handloom and even today there is no mechanized unit of Pashmina weaving in District Kathua. Warp is achieved by the process of warping either via ground warping or drums warping by warping drum. The warp yarns run length wise on the fabrics while weft is achieved by interlacing Pashmina fibres by shuttles and pedals on the loom. The weft runs horizontally on the fabrics.
(9)Dying of fabrics: – Basohli Pashmina weavers colored fabrics after weaving also and there are many consumers who purchase Pashmina fabrics in natural colors and get them dyed in any colour of their own choice. Generally sozni embroidery is practised in Basohli.
(10) Finishing:-It comprises clipping washing & ironing of Pashmina fabrics followed by packing.
BASOHLI PASHMINA FABRICS (SHAWLS,MUFFLERS)
CURRENT POSITION OF BASOHLI-PASHMINA IN DISTRICT KATHUA.
The Handloom Development Kathua hasa Single Basohli Pashmina Training Center in Basohli. This Center is of Elementary type providing free of cost training to 20 numbers of Trainees in Basohli Pashmina Craft. Besides this Handloom Development Department Kathua provides Rs.1000-/-stipend to the trainees per month for the period of one year.
STATUS OF BASOHLI PASHMINA TRAINING CENTERS.
| S.NO. | TRAINING CENTERS | LOCATION | TRAINEES | STATUS |
| 01 | Basohli Pashmina Training Center | Plahi,Basohli | 20 | Active |
After completion of training course all the trainees are registered with the Department as a Pashmina weaver’s .The registration is online via single window system, so that they can avail the Schemes of the Department, establishes their units and earn their livelihood by the production and sale of Basohli Pashmina Products. In this connection marketing support is also provided by the Department.
| Registered Pashmina weavers up to 2020-21 | Registered Pashmina weavers
(2021-22) |
Registered
Pashmina weavers (2022-23) |
Registered
Pashmina weavers (2023-24)Sept. |
Cummulative Total |
| 341 | 22 | 223 | 53 | 639 |
In connection to skill-upgradation in Basohli Pashmina Craft including its revival, so far the Handloom Development Department Kathua has established 03 -number of Basohli Pashmina Karkhandar Units in Basohli.The master trainer of these units upgraded the skill of 30 numbers of ex-trainees in Basohli Pashmina Craft. Now all these units have formulated Industrial Cooperative Societies registered by The Director Handloom & Handicrafts, Jammu under J&K Self-Reliant Act, 1999.
| S.NO. | KARKHANDAR UNIT | LOCATION | EX-TRAINEES | STATUS |
| 01 | Pashmina Karkhandar Unit | Nagrota preta,Basohli | 10 | Active |
| 02 | Pashmina Karkhandar Unit | Mandla,Basohli | 10 | Active |
| 03 | Pashmina Karkhandar Unit | Ward no.13,Basohli | 10 | Active |
STATUS OF BASOHLI PASHMINA COOPERATIVE – SOCIETIES
The Handloom Development Department Kathua has formulated 13 number of Industrial Cooperative Societies of Basohli Pashmina under J&K Self-Reliant Act, 1999.All these societies have availed the benefit ofFinancial Support Scheme. Under this Scheme Financial Support of Rs.1-lac in two equal instalments for the period of 2-years is provided by the Department to the Societies and the amount is non-refundable.
| S.NO. | SOCIETIES UP TO
2023-24sept. |
| 01 | 14 |
| S.NO. | COOPERATIVE-SOCIETIES | LOCATION | WEAVERS | STATUS |
| 01 | THE CHARKHA SPINNERS & WEAVERS
PASHMINA HANDLOOM |
BASOHLI | 12 | ACTIVE |
| 02 | SAHIB PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 12 | ACTIVE |
| 03 | HARI OM PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 46 | ACTIVE |
| 04 | WARIS PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 14 | ACTIVE |
| 05 | MOIN PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 06 | NAV DURGA PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 07 | JAI JODOYA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 08 | SHIVAM WEAVING HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 09 | SAT GURU PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 10 | KABIR DASS PASHMINA | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 11 | ARCHIT PASHMINA | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 12 | BHOLE SHANKAR PASHMINA | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 13 | LAXMI PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| 14 | LAXHMI PASHMINA HANDLOOM | BASOHLI | 11 | ACTIVE |
| TOTAL | 194 |
STATUS OF BASOHLI PASHMINA CLUSTERS
The Handloom Development Kathua has 02-number of Pashmina Clusters in Basohli. One in Mahanpur Basohli and other new one in Phalli, Basohli. The first one comprises 205 number of Pashmina weavers & has successfully completed its tenure of 3-years.The other new one has been recently approved under NHDP(National Handloom Development Programme) by the Ministry of Textiles GOI in the year 2021-22.This Cluster comprises 194 -Pashmina Weavers. Under this Cluster the genuine shed less & Loom less weavers will be benefited by providing Looms and an amount of Rs.1.20 lacs for the construction of working shed as per the guidelines of NHDP. Besides this the Cluster under Samarth Scheme has provided training to Pashmina weavers in terms of weaving, dying & designing including marketing support to the weavers.
| S.NO. | CLUSTER | IMPLEMENTING AGENCY | LOCATION | WEAVERS | STATUS |
| 01 | Basohli Pashmina Cluster | Hari Om Pashmina Handloom Society | BLC,Mahanpur,Basohli | 205 | Complete |
| 02 | Basohli Pashmina Cluster | Sahib Pashmina Handloom Society | Plahi,Basohli | 194 | Active |
STATUS OF CFC (COMMON FACALITY CENTER) BASOHLI –PASHMINA.
The District Administration Kathua has transferred the Land measuring 6-Kanals & 0 Marlas to the Department of Handloom and Handicrafts Kathua for the construction of CFC Basohli Pashmina at Village Rehan Basohli. Funds worth of Rs.3.15 Crores have been approved and the tender for the same also stands allotted. The construction work is going on by the Implementing Agency J&K SICOP.The CFC envisages the overall development of Pashmina Craft by means of entire supply chain from production to marketing.Very soon the two floored building including working area, Raw- material cum storage room, Packing Area, Warping Unit,Show-room,dormitory,Canteen,Meeting Hall will be ready for Basohli Pashmina weavers.
| S.NO. | CFC | IMPLEMENTING AGENCY | LOCATION | STATUS |
| 01 | Basohli Pashmina CFC | J&K SICOP | Rehan, Basohli | Construction work going on |
STATUS OF OFPO (OFF –FARM PRODUCER ORGANISATION BASOHLI –PASHMINA.
The Handloom Development Kathua with the Support of NABARD has formulated Off Farm Producer Organization (OFPO) Basohli Pashmina Woollen Products in Basohli in the year 2021-22.The POPI (Producer Organisation Promoting Institute) is KYASC (Kiran Youth Affairs and Sports Club) a non profitable Voluntary Social Organisation recognized by Govt of J&K.The OFPO is registered under Companies Act ,2013 as KYASC BASOHLI PASHMINA ARTISANS PRODUCER COMPANY LIMITED .The POPI is nurturing OFPO of 195 Basohli Pashmina weavers in terms of weaving, spinning, dying, designing, branding and marketing support. Besides the they have also supported the weavers in terms of looms, Charkas and also provide raw material to the weavers. Presently the OFPO is focusing on marketing support to the Weavers.The POPI finally after 3-years hand over Operations to the BOD of the OFPO.
The Directorate of Handloom & Handicrafts, Jammu has submitted application to the GI Registry Office, Bangalore for GI-Tagging of Basohli Pashmina. The Pashmina Organisation recommended for GI Tagging by the Directorate is KYASC BASOHLI PASHMINA ARTISANS PRODUCER COMPANY LIMITED.
DEPARTMENTAL -SCHEMES.
Departmental Schemes for promotion & Sale of BASOHLI PASHMINA PRODUCTS
| S.NO. | DEPARTMENTAL -SCHEMES |
| 01 | PRADHAN MANTRI WEAVERS MUDRA YOJANA |
| 02 | CREDIT CARD SCHEME FOR ARTISANS & WEAVERS |
| 03 | FINANCIAL SUPPORT SCHEME |
| 04 | KARKHANDER SCHEME |
| 05 | LOAN FOR LOOMS |
| 06 | PROMOTION & MARKETING INTERVENTION (RENTAL-CHARGES) |
| 07 | 10% REBATE ON THE SALE OF HANDLOOM PRODUCTS |
| 08 | EDUCATION SCHOLARSHIP SCHEME FOR CHILDREN OF WEAVERS |
| 09 | NHDP(NATIONAL HANDLOOM DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME) |
EXPORT POTENTIAL OF BASOHLI PASHMINA PRODUCTS
Basohli Pashmina Craft of District Kathua has a great potential of employment generation & boosting the economic growth of the region.The Annual production of Basohli Pashmina products (shawls mufflers)2022-23 in District Kathua is approximately 2560 in number via Training Centers, Karkhandar Units ,Cooperative Societies,Clusters,OFPO & Individual level Pashmina weavers of worth Rs 128.0 -/- lacks. The Handloom Development Department Kathua play a catalytic role in skill-upgradation, access to new designs by conducting various training programmes ,providing financial support to the Pashmina weavers & facilitating marketing of Pashmina products by recommending participation of Pashmina weavers in various National,State & District level Fairs & Exhibitions through marketing incentives. Thus Distt Kathua has a great potential of production & sale of Basohli Pashmina products.
List of Suppliers of Basohli Pashmina Products in Distt.KATHUA
| S no. | Name of Artisian | Society/ Karkhandar Unit/Individual | Address | Contact no. |
| 1 | Rahul Kumar | Sahib Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd. WICS Ltd |
Plahi , Basholi,Kathua | 9149435907 |
| 2 | Kolo Devi | Hari Om Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd WICS |
Nagrota Prehta, Basohli | 7006212012 |
| 3 | Romesh Kumar | Sat Guru Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd. |
W.No 07 Mandla Basohli | 9541134416 |
| 4 | Zakir Hussain | Waris Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd |
W.No 10 Basohli | 9419192835 |
| 5 | Sushma Devi | Kabir Dass Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd. | W. No. 13 Basohli | 9858842620 |
| 6 | Ameena Bano | Moin Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd | W.No 08 Basohli | 7006357455 |
| 7 | Kailash Devi | Sat Guru Pashmina Handloom WICS Ltd. |
W.No 07 Mandla Basohli | 6005937406 |
| 8 | Neelam Rani | Charkha Spinners & Weavers Handloom WICS Ltd | W.No 03 Basohli | 7780831963 |
| 9 | RenuVerma | Archit Pashmina Handloom WIC Ltd | Nagrota Prehta, Basohli | 60006724582 |
| 10 | Rajinder Kumar | Jai Laxhmi Pashmina Handloom WIC Ltd | W.No 06 Mandla Basohli | 99622608581 |
PRODUCTION & SALE OF BASOHLI PASHMINA PRODUCTS (SHAWLS/MUFFLERS)(2022-23)
| S.NO. | PRODUCTION SOURSE | ANNUAL APPROX.PRODUCTION
IN NO.(SHAWALS/MUFFLER) |
ANNUAL APPROX. VALUE IN LACS |
| 01 | BASOHLI PASHMINA TRAINING CENTER | 10 | 0.50 |
| 02 | (KARKHANDER UNITS) | 80 | 4.00 |
| 03 | COOPERATIVE SOCIETIES | 520 | 26.00 |
| 04 | CLUSTERS | 1200 | 60.00 |
| 05 | BASOHLI PASHMINA OFPO | 500 | 25.00 |
| 06 | INDIVIDUAL LEVEL WEAVERS | 250 | 12.50 |
| TOTAL | 2560 | 128.00 | |
SUPPLY CHAIN OF BASOHLI PASHMINA
The production & sale of Basohli Pashmina products can be enhanced by increasing the number of training centers, recruitment of manpower in the Deptt, setting up Raw material, Carding, Dying units, Pashmina Testing Laboratory, GI-tagging of Basohli-pashmina, innovations GeM registration and other e-platform registration of societies, Awareness and development of strong market linkages. All these bottlenecks if cleared will facilitate demand, production & sale of Basohli Pashmina products. It may increases the future production 3-4 times than the current production & accordingly the sale amount may also increases of worth Rs.400.0 lacs./annum approximately. It will leads to overall economic prosperity of the weavers, act as a source of employment generation in the District & hence boost regional economic development.